Resole of my Red Wings 1908 by bespoke Shoemaker Werner Sibla
This saturday I finally could pickup my pair of Redwings 1908 after they have been masterly redone by bespoke shoemaker Werner Sibla.
I did an interview about Werner Sibla about a month ago be-cause I really liked his shoes and the way he incredibly resorted or redid some shoes for customers. We spend about 4 hours of talking and he was very open to share some of his skills and tools he uses. A couple of days later he agreed to have a look at my ruined Red Wings 1908. The sole was ripped off and overall the leather, the rim and the heel suffered quite a lot within the last 4 years.
I just told him that I wanted an extra layer of leather in the sole and the heel and left the rest of the job to him. It turned out superb. Just let someone who knows his job do his job. His main business is to make bespoke shoes and he also got a very good reputation for restoring premium shoes like Alden, John Lobb or Crocket and Jones just to name a view.
I guess he really liked to work with my boots and also liked the result. So when I asked him if I may publish his name and website to friends and readers, he agreed to. Im really excited what further projects will be shown on his Instragram or on his recent job section on his website.
We went for about 20 days on a trip to “our” beloved Thailand. I not even take more than 500 images but still the flower market images in Bangkok are a bit too much to squeeze them in with the others.
So ok it was Marias idea to visit the flower market - Pak Khlong Talat at around 35 Celsius to see “Flowers”. But honestly I have to say I enjoyed it. The vast amount of flowers and the creativity how they were arranged was great. It definitely worth to see if you are on the Chao Phraya river anyway and have seen a lot of Temples already.
For a long time it was on my agenda to visit Uwe Scheuermann´s Kings & Bastards shop in Leinfelden close to Stuttgart. Very last minute I got told that Uwe was able to get Fabian the man behind the Pike Brother Brand to hold a lecture about denim @ K&B. Uwe was kind enough to not just invite me but also suggested to bring some Feinschmuckwith me. Combined all those pros and no cons I had to go there – finally. I was Overwhelmed by the effort Alexandra did to welcome the guests with some bavarian flair / buffet and the shop itself. Uwe managed to pick some very nice and authentic bands for his store. Quite visible is his ability to collaborate well with those brands. (as he did with us as we made the Kings&Bastards Zippos and Belts for him).
Fabian from Pike Brothers already prepared his lecture about Selvage Denim and the selected guests started arriving in time. In about an hour Fabian started with the differences in cotton fibres, the weaving of selvage denim and various aspects of the evolution of the Jeans. Very informative and usually helt for sellers to educate them it was the first time Fabian did speak to customers in that way. It was a really nice evening with nice talks, good people within a superb location and a relaxed way. Thanks to all who made this event happen.
It was in my mind for a long time to finally hand sew my first handbag. The ingredients were simple. First of all the best vegetable tanned leather I could get my hands on, simple design, hand stitched with saddle stitch, best thread, no zippers (they will break at first), and some well thought of practical details. Overall it took me about 10 hours to cut and sew this bag.
A while ago I took test cast of the Indian Head from Feinschmuckout of solid copper and turned it into a button. It now serves the locking for the bag. Interchangable with other buttons and the leather straps can be easily changed as well over the years. This is just a start, I will produce more leather tote bags soon – waiting for more leather hides.
Last friday I had an appointment with Mr. Breuninger the owner of the Breuninger Tannery in Schorndorf Germany. The Breuningers tann since 1552 and since 12 generations as red tanner (vegetable tanner), so from the specs they know their business. Already have received a couple of leather samples I really wan´t to see the factory and to have a closer look at the hides. They do only vegetable tann from german cattle and emphasize on the natural look of the hides.
I was really impressed from what I saw. The aniline tanning results in really characteristic hides by preserving the natural structure of the leather. Mr. Beuninger was really informative and helpful in explaining various aspects of his profession. Finally I bought some hides and reserved one. I guess we found another, or the supplier for future Feinschmuck products.
First of all thanks to U. Tauber to arrange this great workshop. One of the top leather crafters of the world Armin Dobstetter – Custom Leather from Ellwangen hosted a two days workshop where we did a wooden surface belt. Armin started to work with leather when he was 14 years old. I assume that was more than 30 years ago. Within this time he won many leather craft competitions in the States. He is mostly known within the biker scene by his custom leather seats.
Within his shop you only can try to imagine what knowledge and experience he gained within some decades. Armin never got tired during the workshop to answer the questions by us in the most detailed way. He is not afraid to share his knowledge. His argument is that it took him about 30 years to gain it and if he shares it to someone he is already further until he might reach his skills. This made his workshop really special and is the way it should be done. It even went so far that on the last day we really had to hurry to finish our belts.
If you really look for something special made out of leather and want to make your motorbike stand out of the crowd Armin is the guy to talk to. Thanks a lot for your time and inputs you gave us last week – hope to see you soon again.
Last week I traveled with the Feinschmuck collection to Frankfurt to attend an ordershow which was hosted by B74 & Amtraq. Some impressions I was able to capture a lot not. It was a great event in an even greater setup. Thanks Kami and his team & Amtraq to make this show happen. It was amazing to be part with a quite exclusive set of labels/brands there. Visited by some of the best german stockists who had all the time to choose their goods for 2014.
Just to name a few: Tellason, Scarti Labs, Otter Wax, Passion France, Filson, Merz b. Schwanen, Blue Blanket, 3sixteen, Fidelity, Levi´s vintage Clothing, Made and Crafted, Feinschmuck, Croots, Tanner Goods, Topo Designs, Midori, Knowledge Cotton, Reds (shame on me if I forgot a brand).
DC4 Japanese Denim Store – Berlin
Union Special Hemming Service
Just before the Bread & Butter started in Berlin I made a quick visit at the DC4 Store.I was very lucky to meet Olaf there who was kindly enough to share some of his very detailed knowledge about denim and esp. Japanese Denim with me. And even more luck I had that right at the moment the store owner Daniel needed his pair of jean hemmed by Olaf. So I could document the steps of hemming which DC4 does quite exclusively in Germany (please let me know If you knew other Stores who offer chain stitch hemming service on a Union Special sewing machine).
- quick after this post Tim contacted me that Jeanspaleis is doing a similar service in the Netherlands. Check his post a while ago about their service – here:
With every pair of jean you buy at DC4 (marked by the print on the inside pocket) you get the hemming there for free. Other options to upgrade/customize it, are the leather patch service, you can get one or all patches which are laser made sewn on your jean.
So if you are a serious denim lover here is the place to get some really special crafted Japanese Jeans and the advice needed to make your final decision.
An now comes the sad part. Just a day after I made those images the shop got robbed. I do not know if the shop was left totally empty but as I wrote all Jeans have got the DC4 print on the pockets. So please check any premium Japanese Jeans you buy or getting offered and report it to DC4 in case you spot the their Stamp or tries to remove of a print.
Whilst being at the Amtraq stall with Feinschmuck, I had a lot of chances to examine the wide range of products handmade by Croots in England. They have widened their product range a lot, included new colors and offering Horween leather on some bags instead of English bridle leather. Solid and skillfully made, using the best leathers available, the strongest webbing and full brass material their products are sure to gain a life time gear status at your wardrobe.